Tips  & Techniques

Creating Your Own Pattern

 

Supplies:   Photo reference, tracing paper, eraser, piece of clear plexiglass (approx. 8" x 10") adjustable light source, masking tape, fine point black marker, and #2 pencil.

 

 

 

 

 

Choosing a Photo

 

Directions: 

Step 1 - Choosing a pose:

With a packet of photos from the Duckblind, and other reference that I have collected, I begin by choosing a picture that I like. Try to choose a photo in which the picture was taken close to the water, and as near to 90 degrees as possible to the bird. Measurements will change significantly when the duck is at an angle to the camera. You might have to take two pictures and combine them to get the pose you want.

Note:    Good reference photos can be obtained by contacting Willy and Diane McDonald at the Duckblind.

Ferrebee's study bills can be obtained by contacting McKenzie Taxidermy

 

 

 

Photo Tracing Set Up

 

 

 

Step 2 - Setting up to trace photo:

Tape your photograph to a piece of plexiglass, then cover the photo with tracing paper and tape into place.

 

 

Back Light and Trace

 

Step 3 - Back light and trace:

For this step I take my swing arm lamp and adjust it, so I can comfortably trace the picture onto the tracing paper. Be sure to trace the waterline.

 

Darken Tracing

 

Step 4 - Darken tracing:

Using a fine felt tip pen, I darken the tracing. I also extend the bird's outline below the waterline.

 

 

 

 

Altering the Tracing

 

 

Step 5 - Altering the tracing:

Cover the original tracing with a second sheet of tracing paper. Lightly trace over the original, then start moving the second tracing around making changes to your pattern as desired. Once you have the pattern to your liking, it’s time to figure out how much to enlarge.

 

 

 

 

 

Enlarging the Tracing

 

 

Step 6 - Enlarging the tracing:

Using a study bill, (I prefer Ferrebee study bills) measure from the nail to the upper mandible. The Widgeon measures 1-3/4 inches or 1.75 in.  Now measure the bill on tracing.  This measurement is 3/4 inches or .75in.

Now the hard part....copy machines start to copy at 100%(or full size).  To double the size of the bill, I would use the enlarge setting at 200%.  But this would only enlarge the tracing to 1.50 inches, we need 1.75.  I now know that I need to enlarge more than 200%. With the use of a calculator I have determined that I need to enlarge the tracing 234%. Example:

.75x233 = 174.75

.75x234 = 175.5

By the time you carve and sand the bill to shape, the small amount of over stock will disappear.  I prefer to leave extra wood.  It’s easier to take it off, than put it back on.  With the bill enlarged to the proper size, the rest of the pattern will also be to scale.

 

 

 

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Step 7 - Developing top view (body):

With the enlarged side view now complete, the top view can be developed. 

(Photo 1)  Using a blank sheet of card stock, tape the blank sheet into place above the side view. I use triangles to transfer the needed points to the blank sheet.  Establish a center line.  Since I want my decoy to be 6-1/2 inches wide I measure 3-1/4 inches out from the center line, this is my widest point.

(Photo 2)  Using another photograph from the Duckblind for reference, I start at the chest and draw in the outline of my pattern. In order to get my decoys symmetrical, I usually only draw half of the down view. Be careful to mirror the shape of the duck in the photo.

(Photo 3)  To obtain measurement information, I use Bruce Burkes “Game Bird Carving” third edition. The measurements can be found starting on page 335. Also, “Ducks, Geese, and Swans of North America” by Frank C. Bellrose.

Invariably, there will be some dimensions that will elude you.  In this case, I use one of the many published patterns to get the needed information.

 

 

 

 

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Step 8 - Developing top view (head):

(Photo 4) I use the same procedure as the body for developing the head. Using the study bill, I determine the maximum width of the bill, and add 1/8th inch. The width of the head, at the widest point, can be obtained from the books I mentioned.  (Photo 5) Following the same steps as for the body, transfer lines up using a triangle.  Again, add an 1/8th inch (I have at times added 1/4 inch).  Remember, it’s easier to remove wood than to add it.

(Photo 6) Using the top view photograph (refer to Photo 2) from the Duckblind, draw the outline of the head.

Note:

(Photo 7) When cutting out the head, some carvers use a smooth flowing cut from the bill to the head.  I prefer to cut the head out, leaving a definite “corner” where the bill meets the head.  I find it much easier to carve the separation between the head and bill when this “corner” cut is in.

(Photo 8) To find the widest point of the head, I measure down from the crown 2/3 the height of the blank and 2/3 the distance back from the bill. (For demonstration, a Canvasback head was used in photo 8.  Regardless of species, I cut all heads out the same).  I don't always use a pattern of the down view.  I transfer the lines directly to the head cutout (Photo 9)

 

Before devoting your time and resources to carving out your decoy, take a minute and double check all your measurements. My Pappy use to love catching me when I goofed, and he could impart this little jewel, “measure twice, cut once, son”.

 

 

 

Finished Decoy

 

Step 9 - Finished Decoy from Pattern

This Widgeon is the decoy that I carved from this pattern.  It was my first, and so far, only decorative decoy. 

Best of Show honors (novice) were given this decoy at the West Lake, Ohio show. BOS again, at the North American Championships in Michigan. At the World Competition in Ocean City Maryland this decoy was awarded 2nd Best of show.

It still resides in my cabinet, a treasured member of my collection.

 

 

Comment:  

This is just one of several techniques for developing a pattern.  By using this tracing method of creating a pattern, you can, in a short time and with little training, produce an original decoy.

 

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